In that second part i’m going to tell the basic clues that has to be clear and how to configurate them, adapting to our needs. If you want to see the last week’s entry where i do an analysis of the camera options we have nowadays, you could see it here Taking photos to our figures part 1

The ilumination topic has its importance but not at all is what causes problems… because if we see correctly the figure, the camera has to do it too. Usually we do not search to do studio pictures, we only want to do picture in which our work appears as it is. The most common is that we have missconfigurated the camera, turn on, automatic mode, shot and that is all. The picture has nothing in common with the photographied object.

The first thing we have to know is that the flash has not to be used, that burns the colours and deletes nuances. The light has to be external and as similar as which we use to paint

The camera has to be ever in manual mode, what means, that all values are totally adaptable. We could be a bit scared when see for the first time the configuration screen because there are a lot of option, but we only have to play with four parameters: ISO, aperture, shutter speed and white balance.

The ISO has to be ever at 100, that is the real value of it and how it catches the light, the others are to catch low light things because it forces de sensitivity, as phosphorescent objects for example. The problem that gives is that we could think it is the adequate to grow the value to have correctly lighted the scene is that this create irregularities on the image, and that could occasionate distorsions and detail loose on our pictures.

Surely, now we see the scene so dark,what we only may see are shapes on the dark, we are going to fix that. For that, we have to configurate correctly aperture and shutter speed.

The aperture is what gives us wdth on the scene. It is usually represented with a “f”. In low values the front objects are perfectly focused but secondary and background it is not. In higher values if focus the whole scene and even the background, but, it looses light getting an even more dark picture. Then what we have to do is adapting the aperture with the shutter speed at the same time.

The shutter speed is the time that it is open and catching light. It is showed in fractions of a second or whole seconds. At high speed, we get movement static images perfectly focused (we have to configurate well the other parameters), as something that fascinates me, that is taking picures of water in movement that seem still with drops floating and jets perfectly defined. The problem is that the scene has to be so highlighted due the light time caption is so low. On the other side we could play with low speeds, what we get is that the shutter is opened so much more time catching more light but beign so sensitive to tremblings and changes on the scene. But, as in our case we are going to get pictures of our figures that will not move, we will use tripod and auto trigger or an external trigger, we could take advantage to get again all the lost light while configurating the ISO and aperture. Then configurating that last two parameters we could balance the figure or scene and having it perfectly focused.

The last parameter to configurate is the white balance. In almost all smartphone and compact cameras it is only allowed predefined color compensations based on fixed light colours, having in mind the light used, then we could see: tungsten, fluorescent, sun, cloudy, auto… Then we could adapt the colour with what we have or see in the screen. Then in some advanced compact cameras and, of course, the reflex, has a personalitzated option. In that mode we have to do a photo of a flat white element, as could be: a paper, cardboard or cloth… with that the camera configures the white value with taken in the picture, adapting all colours. Of course, it is the prefered option if it is available.

And that is the basic guide (not more needed) to configurate our camera.